Issue 14
Côte d'Azur Art Lovers
CÔTE D’AZUR FOR ART LOVERS
IT’S NOT ALL ABOUT BEACH CLUBS!
By Susie Hollands
The Côte d’Azur has captivated artists, writers, designers and dreamers for more than a century. What is remarkable is not simply how many creative figures passed through, but how many chose to make homes here, drawn by the extraordinary light, the landscape and a certain freedom of spirit.
AN ICONIC FEMALE ARCHITECT
One of my favourite visits along this stretch of coast is Eileen Gray’s E-1027. There is something quietly perfect about its modernism: elegant, restrained and deeply considered. Arranging a visit can require a little persistence, but the effort is rewarded. Just beyond, you can also see Le Corbusier’s tiny beach cabins, which somehow manage to feel both humble and revolutionary. For anyone with an interest in architecture, it is a pilgrimage worth making.
Another recent revelation is La Pausa, Gabrielle Chanel’s villa above Monaco. Built as a private retreat, it was the one house Chanel designed entirely for herself, a refuge from the demands of Parisian life. Following an extensive restoration, it has entered a new chapter under the direction of Yana Peel and has been reimagined as an intimate cultural and hospitality venue. Over the years, guests included figures as varied as Luchino Visconti, Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. If visiting La Pausa appeals, we would be delighted to arrange it.
THE TATTOOED HOUSE
Not far away on St Jean Cap Ferrat is Villa Santo Sospir. I remember repeatedly telephoning the caretaker years ago in an attempt to secure a visit. Today, following its restoration, it is considerably easier to appreciate this remarkable house. We can organize for you to rent and stay there.
Jean Cocteau lived here for more than a decade, covering walls, ceilings and doorways with his whimsical drawings. He referred to it as “the tattooed house.” Cocteau seems to have been an exceptionally talented houseguest, spending much of his life drifting between some of the most fascinating homes in Europe.
THE LEGENDARY COLOMBE D’OR
For a sensual gastronomic experience, make time for La Colombe D'or in Saint-Paul-de-Vence. Part restaurant, part living museum, it houses an extraordinary collection featuring works by Picasso, Calder and a beautiful mosaic by Léger. While many come for dinner and art, I am happiest arriving in the early evening, settling into the bar and seeing where the conversations lead. It remains one of those rare places where travellers, artists and locals still seem to mix effortlessly.
Afterwards, you might continue up the road and spend the night at Cabanon, our friends at La Fondation Cab's reconstruction of Jean Prouvé’s celebrated house. The following day, the nearby Fondation Maeght offers the perfect complement: one of Europe’s great collections of modern and contemporary art, set within gardens and architecture that are every bit as memorable as the works themselves. The Côte d’Azur is full of famous addresses, but these are the places that reveal something deeper about the region: a landscape that has long inspired extraordinary creativity, and continues to do so today.
THE PROPERTY OPPORTUNITY
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LA LIGNE DROITE, ST-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT
Perched majestically above the bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer, this rare architectural gem built in 1933 by Jean Bouchet, student of Le Corbusier, is a striking example of early modernist design on the French Riviera.
Terraced grounds shaded by century-old pine and olive trees, complete with a swimming pool and views stretching across Cap Ferrat and the Mediterranean. The plot also includes rare historical features like a vintage funicular path, a garden once home to a mill, and architectural detailing that pays homage to its 1930s origin.
While in need of restoration, the structure is classified as a Monument Historique, offering a unique opportunity to revive a cultural landmark with timeless Riviera elegance.
Nicknamed a 'boat perched on the hill’, the villa boasts over 590 sqm of living space, spanning four levels and offering panoramic views from every terrace, window, and rooftop solarium.
A PERSONAL NOTE
The Côte d’Azur has a way of rewarding repeat visits. It is far more than a beach destination; it is a place where art, architecture and landscape converge. I’ve so enjoyed rediscovering a region that has inspired generations of artists, writers, and dreamers. Over time, the Riviera becomes less about seeing new places and more about deepening your connection with a landscape whose beauty and cultural richness continue to unfold with every visit.
With warmth,
Susie Hollands
Founder, VINGT Paris & Twenty1
If you'd like recommendations for the South of France - you'd like to explore it further - I'm always happy to share what I know. Sometimes the best discoveries come from conversations with someone who genuinely knows and loves a place.