Issue 15
Arles in Summer
ARLES IN SUMMER
WHY I NEVER MISS THE PHOTOGRAPHY FESTIVAL
By Susie Hollands
There are certain events that become markers in your calendar - the sort of occasions around which you arrange the rest of your summer. For me, one of those is Les Rencontres d'Arles, the annual photography festival that takes over this beautiful Provençal town from July through September.
I never miss it.
The opening week is always particularly fun because friends arrive from all over the world. Many work in photography, art, publishing, or culture, and somehow everyone seems to find their way to Arles at the same time. The town is small enough that you keep bumping into familiar faces in cafés, at exhibitions, in the streets, or over dinner. Equally, you meet new people constantly. The whole place develops a festival atmosphere that is difficult to describe unless you've experienced it.
MEETING OF THE MINDS
What makes the event so special is not just the photography itself, but the setting.
Founded in 1970 by the Arles photographer Lucien Clergue, the writer Michel Tournier, and the historian Jean-Maurice Rouquette, Les Rencontres d'Arles has grown into one of the most important photography festivals in the world. Every summer it presents dozens of exhibitions across the town, attracting photographers, curators, collectors, journalists, and enthusiasts from every corner of the globe.
But unlike many international art events, the exhibitions are woven directly into the fabric of the town.
FLÂNERIE ROMAIN
Arles is full of beautiful churches and extraordinary historic buildings, some dating back to Roman times. Each year, these spaces are transformed into exhibition venues. You might find contemporary photography inside a medieval chapel, an installation in a former industrial building, or a major retrospective housed within a centuries-old structure. The contrast between the work and the architecture creates something genuinely memorable.
Over the years, there have been countless exhibitions that have stayed with me long after summer ended. Certain images, certain installations, certain spaces become attached to memories of particular years and particular conversations. I can easily think of a dozen exhibitions that remain vivid in my mind even now.
The festival is only part of what makes Arles appealing.
"MAJAVILLE"
You still find a genuine Provençal town beneath the cultural activity. The markets remain central to daily life. There are excellent restaurants, a relaxed pace, and a sense that people actually live here rather than simply visit. It feels authentic in a way many fashionable destinations struggle to maintain once they become successful.
The town has also benefited enormously from the vision and investment of Maja Hoffmann, whose commitment to Arles has transformed the cultural landscape. She restored several important properties, including the wonderful Hôtel du Nord-Pinus and L'Arlatan, both of which are lovely places to stay. Through the LUMA project, she also brought Frank Gehry to Arles to create a contemporary arts centre that has become one of the town's defining landmarks.
What's remarkable is that despite all of this attention, Arles remains relatively accessible.
THE GATES OF THE ALPILLES
Property prices have certainly increased over the years, but compared with many of France’s other cultural destinations, Arles remains surprisingly affordable.
From a practical perspective, it’s also incredibly accessible. The TGV station in Avignon is just half an hour away, meaning you can leave Arles in the morning and be back in Paris around two and a half hours later.
I discovered this extraordinary town through my dear friend, Madeleine Polansky. Visiting her introduced me to a completely different side of Provence. Our Sundays were spent hiking in the Alpilles, exploring the wild landscapes of the Camargue, watching the legendary gardians – the Camargue cowboys – at work, and embarking on countless property adventures together. Through those experiences, I fell in love with this magnificent and unique region and learned so much about its history, architecture and way of life
THE PROPERTY OPPORTUNITY
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SOUTH OF FRANCE EYGALIERES LES ALPILLES 1
This exquisite four-bedroom, four-bathroom residence stands as a testament to elegance and sophistication. Meticulously conceptualised and designed by a celebrated French visionary, the property boasts an opulent kitchen and lavish bathrooms that redefine indulgence
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SOUTH OF FRANCE AUTHENTIC FARMHOUSE SAINT RÉMY DE PROVENCE
Mas to renovate, located in the sought-after countryside near Saint Rémy de Provence.
A PERSONAL NOTE
For me, though, the real appeal remains the atmosphere during the photography festival itself. For a few weeks each summer, this ancient Provençal town becomes one of the most interesting cultural meeting places in Europe. You spend your days moving between exhibitions, your evenings catching up with friends, and all the while you're surrounded by centuries of history.
It's a ritual I look forward to every year.
With warmth,
Susie Hollands
Founder, VINGT Paris & Twenty1
If you'd like recommendations for Provence - you'd like to explore it further - I'm always happy to share what I know. Sometimes the best discoveries come from conversations with someone who genuinely knows and loves a place.