Issue 16

THE OTHER SIDE OF FRANCE

One of my favourite regions in France is a place that’s still remarkably under the radar: Gascony.

Often described as the “other” South of France, it lies between Bordeaux, Toulouse and the Pyrenees, yet somehow remains overlooked by many international buyers. That’s part of its charm. It’s a region where you’ll find some of the least flashy people imaginable, yet many are incredibly successful. The lifestyle is understated, the countryside is beautiful and property remains surprisingly good value.

THE OTHER SOUTH OF FRANCE

LOW-KEY LUXURY

By Susie Hollands

HISTORIC CHÂTEAUX

I first discovered Gascony just after the pandemic thanks to the owner of an extraordinary château. He had spent years restoring it, creating an exceptional home with incredible interiors and impeccable attention to detail. He was determined that I should represent the property.

At first I kept refusing. I didn’t know the region, I rarely handled estates of that scale, and from Paris it wasn’t exactly convenient. Eventually, mainly to stop him asking, I agreed to take the train down for a visit.

The moment I arrived, I completely fell in love with both the property and the area.

The owner, David, was a fascinating perfectionist, and through him I met someone who has since become one of my closest professional contacts in Gascony: Andrew Nadin.

Andrew, originally from Britain, has built an exceptional business restoring historic properties and looking after overseas owners. His knowledge of the local architecture and heritage is extraordinary, but what really sets him apart is the level of personal service he gives every client.

Interestingly, Andrew also played an unexpected role in my own life. During the pandemic he spoke so positively about his children’s boarding school in Britain that it inspired me to look into it for my own daughter. She eventually left France for England, and Andrew was incredibly generous in helping us navigate all the complications of arranging interviews and travelling during that difficult period. I’ll always be grateful to him for that.

The château itself sold remarkably quickly to an American client who bought it for his parents, who moved permanently to France. It was a wonderful introduction to the region and to the kind of international buyers who are increasingly discovering this part of the country.

AUTHENTIC CONNECTIONS

What I love most about Gascony is that it offers a completely different version of southern France. It’s elegant without being showy, cosmopolitan without feeling touristy and lively throughout the year rather than becoming seasonal.

At the heart of the region is the département of Gers, the historic homeland of d’Artagnan and the Three Musketeers. It’s a landscape of rolling hills, vineyards, medieval bastide towns, bustling weekly markets and fortified villages. The honey-coloured stone architecture has a character all of its own - rather like Tuscany - and in summer the fields are filled with sunflowers.

Although it feels wonderfully rural, it’s surprisingly accessible. Agen has excellent TGV connections, while Toulouse and Bordeaux - with their international airports - are only around one and a half to two hours away. The Atlantic coast is also within easy reach, so destinations like Biarritz, Saint-Jean-de-Luz and even San Sebastián make wonderful day trips, while Barcelona is an easy drive if you’re staying for longer.

Unlike some parts of the Côte d’Azur, Gascony doesn’t simply close down once the tourists leave. The local markets, festivals and villages continue to thrive all year round.

There’s also a fascinating cultural identity here. Gascony even has its own historic language, still spoken by many older residents, and there’s a strong pride in local traditions, food and wine. It’s an incredibly welcoming part of France, attracting a discreet international community of Parisians, Swiss, British, South Africans and an increasingly diverse cosmopolitan population, all drawn by the quality of life rather than the social scene.

THE PROPERTY OPPORTUNITY

For property buyers, one of the most sought-after areas is what’s known as the Golden Triangle, between Agen, Condom and Nérac. Condom is home to its magnificent cathedral, Nérac has Henri IV’s château and one of the region’s best Saturday markets, while Agen provides excellent transport links, including a private airfield.

Property remains remarkably good value compared with much of France. Around €500,000 buys an attractive village or country home, while budgets of €1.5 to €2 million secure substantial estates with land. From around €2.5 million upwards, you enter the market for truly exceptional historic properties, and at €4 million the quality on offer is extraordinary by French standards.

Perhaps my favourite thing about Gascony is its atmosphere. There are plenty of very wealthy people here, but you probably wouldn’t notice them. They may own magnificent estates yet still drive an old battered car into the local market. That’s the character of the region-quiet confidence rather than ostentation.

A PERSONAL NOTE

f you’re looking for authentic France, with wonderful food, celebrated vineyards, spectacular countryside and a relaxed pace of life, Gascony is one of the country’s best-kept secrets. It’s somewhere people come not to be seen, but simply to live well - and once you’ve discovered it, it’s very easy to understand why so many never want to leave.

With warmth,

Susie Hollands

Founder, VINGT Paris & Twenty1