Issue 21
COURCHEVEL: MY WINTER ESCAPE
COURCHEVEL: MY WINTER ESCAPE
WHY THIS GLAMOROUS CORNER OF THE FRENCH ALPS REMAINS ONE OF MY FAVOURITE PLACES TO SKI
By Susie Hollands
There are some places that make winter feel like something to look forward to, and Courchevel is certainly one of them. With vast white slopes, pine forests heavy with snow, impossibly pretty Alpine villages and wooden chalets with fires roaring inside, it has long been an international favourite and one of mine too.
Part of the legendary Les Trois Vallées, Courchevel sits within the largest linked ski area in the world, with around 600km of pistes to explore. The resort itself is made up of several villages, each with its own personality, but the grande dame remains Courchevel 1850, generally known these days simply as Courchevel. Often described as the Saint-Tropez of winter sports, it has certainly earned its glamorous reputation, but beneath the Michelin-starred restaurants, fabulous hotels and designer boutiques is, first and foremost, an exceptional ski resort.
THE MOUNTAINS COME FIRST
Courchevel’s sporting heritage goes back to the 1940s, when former Olympic skiing champion Émile Allais dreamed of creating an entirely new kind of mountain resort. Today, there is something for almost every level, from gentle nursery slopes to challenging black runs and off-piste adventures. It’s particularly good for beginners, with an excellent selection of green runs and established ski schools including New Generation and ESF.
The classic Courchevel experience is, of course, a beautiful wooden chalet, and there are some extraordinary ones scattered across the resort - do contact me early if you are interested.
One particularly memorable trip was to Hôtel Courcheneige, directly on the slopes at 1850. Friendly, stylish and relaxed, it had that wonderful luxury of genuine ski-in, ski-out access – something anyone who has carried skis through a resort in ski boots will appreciate. Although the hotel is now reportedly making way for a new One&Only development, it remains a special memory of the Courchevel.
LUNCH IS HALF THE FUN
Courchevel has always taken food remarkably seriously, and lunch can quite easily become as important as the morning’s skiing. Cap Horn has long been one of my favourite daytime stops, perched high on the mountain with a fabulous terrace, music and the sort of wine list that can make the prospect of an afternoon black run seem increasingly ambitious.
Le Chalet de Pierres, one of the resort’s longstanding mountain restaurants, is another well-known option, while Bel Air over towards Courchevel Moriond is always a good choice. For something more extravagant, Courchevel has no shortage of exceptional dining, including the restaurants at Cheval Blanc Courchevel – although the rule here is to book well in advance.
When the lifts close, the fun doesn’t necessarily stop. Courchevel and Courchevel Moriond both have lively après-ski scenes, from drinks beside the fire to considerably later nights at places such as Les Caves de Courchevel and La Mangeoire. The sensible thing would obviously be to go home early in preparation for a full day’s skiing. Courchevel doesn’t always encourage the sensible option.
AWAY FROM THE PISTES
There’s plenty to do for anyone who doesn’t ski, or simply wants a day off. Snowboarding, skating, tobogganing and ice climbing are all possibilities.
Some of our most memorable experiences, however, have involved getting away from the main resort. There are wonderful mountain adventures to be enjoyed, from nighttime tobogganing to snowmobile excursions and evenings in hidden Alpine cabins.
One particular evening has stayed with me. We travelled across the snow to a wonderfully atmospheric log cabin for a traditional Alpine supper of fondue, regional charcuterie and Savoie wine, accompanied by an accordionist and a slightly crazed woodcutter enthusiastically slamming an axe into the tables. You don’t forget an evening like that in a hurry.
And then there is the shopping. Alongside local food, ski wear and Alpine souvenirs, Courchevel naturally has its share of designer boutiques, with international luxury houses and seasonal fashion collections appearing rather unexpectedly halfway up a mountain.
A CHALET OF YOUR OWN
Of course, once you’ve fallen in love with Courchevel, the temptation to have a place of your own becomes rather difficult to resist.
For those considering buying in the French Alps, we have a particularly exciting opportunity: an exceptional chalet currently offered for sale.
A beautiful Alpine property and a wonderful opportunity for someone dreaming of their own mountain retreat, it’s exactly the sort of home that makes the idea of spending an entire winter in Courchevel very appealing indeed.
CHALET BELLE ETOILE View property details.
STAY SOMEWHERE EXTRAORDINARY
Of course, once you’ve fallen in love with Courchevel, the temptation to have a place of your own becomes rather difficult to resist.
For those considering buying in the French Alps, we have a particularly exciting opportunity: an exceptional chalet currently offered for sale.
A beautiful Alpine property and a wonderful opportunity for someone dreaming of their own mountain retreat, it’s exactly the sort of home that makes the idea of spending an entire winter in Courchevel very appealing indeed.
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CHALET NOGENTIL
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CHALET BELLECOTE
A PERSONAL NOTE
Timing makes a big difference in Courchevel. The resort can become extremely busy during the main school holidays, particularly in February, so if you have the flexibility to travel outside peak weeks, I would. Quieter pistes, easier restaurant reservations and a more relaxed atmosphere make an already special place even better.
What keeps me returning, though, is that Courchevel manages to be several things at once. Yes, it’s glamorous, with extraordinary hotels, restaurants and boutiques, but at heart it’s still about the mountains: the first run of the morning, that incredible Alpine light, long lunches with friends and the wonderful exhaustion at the end of a day outside.
And then, occasionally, an accordionist and a man with an axe.
Every good ski holiday needs a little unpredictability.
With warmth,
Susie Hollands
Founder, VINGT Paris & Twenty1
