Issue 13
Issue 13 - Nice: The Riviera City That Has It All
Nice: The Riviera City That Has It All
By Susie Hollands
When people dream about the Côte d’Azur, they often picture Saint-Tropez, Cannes or perhaps one of the beautiful hilltop villages overlooking the Mediterranean. Yet if you asked me where I think people could genuinely live, not just visit, my answer would very often be Nice.
There is something about Nice that manages to combine the very best of the South of France in one place. It has the sea, the sunshine, the markets, the culture, the restaurants, the architecture and, perhaps most importantly, a real year-round life. Unlike some Riviera destinations that feel seasonal, Nice remains vibrant in every month of the year.
I think that’s what makes it so compelling.
A CITY SHAPED BY CENTURIES
The city has long attracted people searching for a different pace of life. The Greeks settled here first, followed by generations of traders, artists, aristocrats and travellers drawn by the climate and the remarkable light. The English arrived in large numbers during the nineteenth century, giving us the famous Promenade des Anglais, while artists such as Matisse and Chagall found inspiration in the colours of the sea and sky.
What I particularly enjoy about Nice is the way different influences have blended together over centuries. There are traces of Italy everywhere, from the cuisine to the architecture. Baroque churches sit alongside Belle Époque façades. Elegant Art Deco buildings stand next to colourful streets that feel almost Italian in character. Somehow it all works together, creating a city that feels distinct from anywhere else in France.
Whenever I visit, I find myself drawn back to Vieux Nice.
The old town is undoubtedly popular with visitors, and during the summer it can be busy, but there is still something magical about getting lost in its narrow streets. If you move away from the main thoroughfares and wander deeper into the old quarter, you’ll discover small squares, hidden churches, old palaces and local businesses that have been there for generations. The atmosphere changes throughout the day as market traders pack away their stalls, restaurant terraces fill up and the evening light softens the colourful façades.
It’s a place that rewards curiosity.
THE TASTE OF THE MEDITERRANEAN
Like many of my favourite cities, Nice reveals itself slowly.
Food plays an enormous role in that experience. One of the things I love about Nice is that it has managed to retain a strong culinary identity despite its international popularity. Niçois cuisine remains proudly local and deeply rooted in the region. You see it in the markets, in the small family-run restaurants and in the dishes themselves.
A proper socca eaten fresh from the oven remains one of life’s simple pleasures. So too are stuffed vegetables, fried courgette flowers and soupe au pistou. These are not complicated dishes, but they speak of the Mediterranean in the most authentic way possible.
The markets tell a similar story.
Cours Saleya is perhaps the most famous, overflowing with flowers, fruit and vegetables beneath the pastel façades of the old town. Visitors love it, and understandably so. But I also encourage people to venture a little further and discover Marché Libération, where many locals still do their shopping. Here you’ll find some of the best produce in the city, along with fishmongers, cheesemongers and traders who have spent years supplying the neighbourhood.
I’ve always believed that markets tell you whether a place is truly alive. Nice passes that test very comfortably.
WHERE CULTURE MEETS THE COAST
Another reason I think Nice works so well is the sheer amount of culture packed into a relatively compact city. The museums alone are worth several visits. The Musée Matisse remains one of my favourites, offering an extraordinary insight into the artist who made Nice his home for so many years. The Chagall Museum is equally special, while contemporary art lovers will find plenty to explore elsewhere in the city.
Yet unlike some cultural capitals, Nice never feels overly serious.
The sea is always there. You can spend the morning in a museum and the afternoon swimming in the Mediterranean. You can browse an antique market, enjoy lunch in the old town and still have time for an evening walk along the Promenade des Anglais. Life feels balanced here in a way that many cities struggle to achieve. Perhaps that’s what I find most attractive.
People often imagine that life on the Riviera is about glamour, and occasionally it is. But the reality is that the most appealing aspect of Nice is its everyday practicality. The international airport is minutes from the city centre. Italy is close by. Monaco is within easy reach. The mountains are nearby. There is excellent infrastructure, a strong international community and enough activity throughout the year to keep life interesting.
For anyone considering spending more time in the South of France, those things matter. A lot.
And perhaps that’s why Nice continues to attract so many people who arrive for a holiday and begin quietly imagining what life might look like if they stayed a little longer.
THE PROPERTY OPPORTUNITY
-
SOUTH OF FRANCE CAP DE NICE MONT BORON
In fact, if that thought has crossed your mind, we have a rather special opportunity. From late September, one of our favourite long-stay apartments in Mont Boron will become available. Perched high above Nice, it enjoys one of those extraordinary Riviera panoramas that never quite loses its magic: from the open-plan living and dining room and its expansive terrace, your view stretches across the sparkling Mediterranean, over the Old Port of Nice, to Villefranche-sur-Mer and the beautiful peninsula of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
-
SOUTH OF FRANCE VILLA – NICE
Set within an exclusive gated residence near Mont Boron, this luxurious villa accommodates up to 10 guests in refined comfort. Surrounded by landscaped gardens, it offers privacy, elegance, and world-class amenities in one of the Côte d’Azur’s most coveted locations, just 450m from the beach.