LETTERS FROM ABROAD
Issue 3 - Nice
Why Nice is Having Its Moment,
And Why You Should Pay Attention
By Susie Hollands
Nice, France, is having an absolute renaissance - and if you haven't been paying attention, now's the time to start.
I know Nice intimately - it's one of my top three places in France, and I've watched it transform from a somewhat overlooked Côte d'Azur stopover into one of the most compelling destinations on the French Riviera. The international airport brings people in, but now they're actually staying. And for good reason.
What's drawing me back again and again isn't just the obvious Mediterranean beauty. It's the way Nice has evolved into something much more interesting than its reputation suggested.
What I found has genuinely surprised me. So much so that I've actually taken a small flat there myself - something that fits my nomadic rhythm. Let me tell you what changed my mind - and why this might matter if you've been weighing up where to base yourself.
A Younger, More Vital Energy
The crowd coming to Nice now looks different than it did even five years ago. Younger travelers are discovering it, drawn by an increasingly vibrant food scene and a lifestyle that goes far beyond beach clubs and convertibles on the coastal road.
Don't get me wrong—there's still plenty of that classic Riviera glamour if you want it. But what's exciting is the other side: the hiking, the coastal walks that are absolute must-dos, the focus on wellness and outdoor living that resonates with people who want more than just conspicuous luxury.
I think this appeals particularly to the kind of person who values experiences over appearances—which, if you're reading this, is probably you.
The Food Scene You Didn't Know About
Nice has always had incredible food, but it's having a moment of recognition right now. Niçoise cuisine is deceptively simple—very few ingredients, perfectly executed, nothing fussy. When it's done right, it's extraordinary.
There's a new hotel that opened at the top of the old town in a converted convent (I'll share the name with anyone who writes me—it deserves to be discovered rather than overrun), and the chef there exemplifies this approach beautifully. Super simple menu. Flawless execution. You eat in this stunning central courtyard, open air, surrounded by the architecture of the old convent that took ten years to restore properly.
The atmosphere is quiet luxury at its best—the kind of place where you don't need to stay to enjoy it. Go for dinner. It's the sort of experience that reminds you why you travel in the first place.
The Hotel Situation (Finally Resolved)
For years, Nice had a significant problem for the discerning traveler: there was nowhere exceptional to stay. The Negresco on the Promenade des Anglais is the grand dame hotel everyone knows, but it's falling apart and carries some rather uncomfortable colonial imagery that makes it impossible to recommend.
This made Nice difficult to suggest to clients, despite its obvious appeal.
That's changed. The new hotel in the old town—the one with the courtyard I mentioned—solved this problem elegantly. It's not showy. It's not trying too hard. The architects succeeded in creating something that feels both reverent to the history and absolutely contemporary in its sensibility.
Worth seeking out, whether you stay or simply visit for a meal.
The Reputation vs. The Reality
Nice has had a reputation—a bit dangerous, a bit nasty, rough around the edges. The truth is quite different: that's not my experience at all. Like any city, you need to know where you're going and what you're doing, but the Nice I know is welcoming, safe, and increasingly sophisticated.
I think this reputation lingers partly because Nice doesn't market itself the way Saint-Tropez or Monaco do. It's been quietly getting on with being an actual city where actual people live, rather than a stage set for Instagram moments.
That authenticity is part of its appeal now.
The Property Opportunity
Here's something that might interest you: Nice is still underpriced compared to the glitzier parts of the Côte d'Azur.
You can find townhouses, small villas, even interesting investment opportunities in small hotels and period buildings. The property market here is much more accessible than nearby areas that get more attention, and it's appreciating as more people discover what Nice offers.
For those thinking about establishing a base in the South of France, this is worth exploring. The airport connectivity makes it practical. The lifestyle makes it appealing. And the price point makes it possible.
Why I Keep Coming Back
I know the South of France like the back of my hand—the full stretch from Marseille to Monaco to the Italian border. It's more territory than most people realize, and if you only have five or ten days, you need to plan thoughtfully to hit the iconic places without exhausting yourself.
Nice sits at the heart of it all, which is part of its magic. You can base yourself there and explore outward, or make it your primary destination and discover its layers. Either way, it rewards attention.
I find myself recommending Nice more and more to people who are past the point of needing the obvious Riviera signifiers. They want the quality of life, the food, the beauty, the outdoor access—without the performance of it all.
If that sounds like you, Nice might be exactly what you're looking for.
With warmth,
Susie Hollands
Founder, VINGT Paris & Twenty1
If you'd like recommendations for the South of France - or if Nice has been calling to you and you'd like to explore it further—I'm always happy to share what I know. Sometimes the best discoveries come from conversations with someone who genuinely knows and loves a place. Please contact me here.